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지난 여름 프랑스를 여행하면서 지중해에 면한 니스에서 동쪽으로 10km정도 떨어진 곳에 에즈(Eze)라 이름 붙은 조그마한 마을을 찾았다.
이 지역은 지중해에 면하면서도 알프스의 끝자락이기도 하여 프랑스의 중부나 서부지역과는 다른, 산과 바다가 어우러지는 자연환경을 가지고 있다. 지중해가 내려다 보이는 산봉우리에 있는 이 마을은 이 지역만의 특유한 건축물로 구성되어 있다.
프랑스의 기후적 특성은 알프스영향으로 인한 내륙지역의 대륙성 기후와 서측 비스케이만의 영향을 받는 해양성기후 그리고 남쪽의 지중해성 기후, 이렇게 세가지가 나타나고 있는데 이곳 지중해지역은 여름에는 건조한 건기이고 겨울에는 다습하며 비가오는 지중해성 기후이면서도 알프스의 고기압영향으로 서부 노르망디지역이나 중부보다 상대적으로 비가 적게 오는 지역으로 분석된다.
비가 적게 오니 자연 타 지역에 비하여 지붕의 경사가 완만하게 집을 짓는게 특징으로 나타난다. 또한 건축자재는 이 지역에서 많이 나오는 화강암 종류의 자연석을 그대로 또는 자연스럽게 다듬어 사용하며, 이 지역에서 나오는 연한 주황색의 흙으로 쌓아 만든 벽체와 역시 이 지역의 연한 주황색 흙으로 빚은 기와를 얹은 지붕으로 구성된 집을 지었다. 이렇게 하여 만들어진 집들이 바로 '남프랑스식'의 건축으로 불리는 것이다. 기후의 특성으로 만들어진 집의 형태 와 건축자재로 인해 집의 모습이 파스텔 톤의 색채와 함께 부드럽고 다정한 모습을 하게 되고 이 지역건축의 특징으로 자리를 잡게 된 것이다.
에즈마을은 대부분 이런 집들로 채워져 있으며 좁은 골목길과 경사로의 돌계단 그리고 지중해가 내려다 보이는 테라스로 구성되어있다. 마을 안에는 가게와 레스트랑 그리고 작은 호텔이 포진하고 있어 외부 관광객이 묶고 싶고 먹고 싶고 사고 싶은 충동을 갖도록 이들을 맞을 준비를 하고 있다. 여기의 집들은 '화려함'이나 '새것'이나 '거대함'이나 '비싸보이는 재료' 와는 거리가 멀다. 옛부터 내려오는 그 집의 모습을 표 안나게 보존하는 함으로서 그 멋을 그대로 유지하는 것을 최고의 미덕으로 생각하고 있다. 그래서 더욱 사랑스럽다. 입구에는 성(城)으로서의 입구가 형성되어 있으며 마을 안에는 절대로 크지도 호화롭지 않은, 그래서 마음이 끌려 가고 싶은 성당도 있다. 사방을 내려다 볼 수 있는 이 마을(산)의 정상부에는 선인장이 가득한 정원이 예쁘게 꾸며져 있었다.-입장료를 받고 있었지만...
이 마을을 돌아보고 내려 오면서 비교가 되는 마을이 생각났다. 이 지중해 해안을 따라 동쪽으로 계속 가다보면 나타나는 이태리의 마을 '베르나짜'나 '마나롤라'가 생각이 난다. 이태리의 이 두 마을이 잘 차려입은 이태리청년 같다면 이곳 에즈마을은 드레스 예쁘게 입은 프랑스처녀 같다고나 할까.... 이태리의 남성성과 프랑스의 여성성이 그대로 엿보이는 것 같은 느낌이다.
사진 글 / 방철린/건축그룹칸 종합건축사사무소(주)/20171108/Architect Group CAAN /Bang Chulrin
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프랑스 파리의 중심부를 흐르는 센강(Seine River)은 서쪽으로 흐르고 흘러 노르망디(Normandie)지역에 이르러서 대서양으로 빠져나간다. 이 센강의 하구를, 프랑스 입체파미술에서 기인한 듯 용틀임하는 곡선도로로 이어진 기나긴 노르망디 대교를 남쪽으로 타고 내려와 서쪽으로 방향을 틀면 아름다운 항구도시 옹플뢰르(Honfleur)가 나타난다. 이곳 옹플뢰르는 항구의 배들이 항구 주변으로 있는 이 지방 특유의 집들과 어우러져 멋진 풍경을 만들어 내는 것으로도 유명하지만 예술가들이 모여드는 도시여서 더욱 매력이 넘친다. 이 곳은 프랑스 인상주의의 선구자역할을 한 외젠부댕(EugèneLouisBoudin) 의 고향이기도 하거니와 그에게서 영향을 받아 프랑스의 19세기 미술계를 화려하게 장식했던 모네(Claude Oscar Monet)와 르누아르(Pierre-Auguste Renoir)와 같은 인상주의 화가들의 그림작업의 현장이었기도, 주옥같은 그림의 대상이기도 하였다. 대서양과 면하고 있는 이곳 옹플뢰르는 옛부터 교역이 활발했던 항구도시로서의 풍요로움과 풍취가 살아있기도 하거니와 이 지역 노르망디 특유의 건축구법이 도시의 특별한 맛을 살리고 있어 매력이 더해진다. 이 곳은 단단하고 병충해에 강해 건축자재로 안성맞춤인 참나무가 많아 건축에 많이 이용되었다. 도시 곳곳에는 급한 경사지붕과 함께 이 나무로 만들어져 건축의 구조적 특징이 외부로 그대로 노출된 건축들이 즐비하여 다른 도시에서는 보기힘든 노르망디의 독특한 도시풍경을 만들어낸다. 이 목조건축이 다른 지방의 건축과 차별화하는 특별한 건축형식미로 이 도시를 빛내고 있는 것이다. 이 도시의 상징처럼 남아 있는 성카트린느교회(Saint Catherine's Church) 와 그 종탑 또한 특별한 목구조로 만들어졌다. 본당의 경우 목구조 고딕형식을 취하면서 내부의 폭을 넓게 하기 위하여 더블 박공형식으로 만들어 다른 곳에선 맛 볼 수 없는 특별한 교회내부 풍경을 만들어냈다. 종탑 또한 목구조를 건축외부로 과감하게 노출시키는 시도로 특별한 형태의 도시 오브제로 등장시켰다. 도시의 골목 골목을 섭렵하면서 노르망디스타일의 목구조 건축물을 접하는 것도, 골목 속에서 인간적 스케일의 도시 맛을 느끼는 것도 건축과 도시의 창조적 생각을 하게 하는 특별한 도시여행의 경험으로 내맘 속에 남는다.
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칸종합건축사사무소 대표건축가 방철린은 2017년 8월18일부터 28일까지 11일간 프랑스의 서측과 중 남부 지역의 도시와 건축 그리고 인상파미술 관련 마을들을 둘러보았다. 바르비종, 오베르쉬르와즈, 지베르니,그리고몽셍미쉘을 거쳐 노르망디지역의 에트르타, 예술인의 도시 옹플뢰르, 르아브르를 보았으며 중부지역 보르도를 거쳐 카르카손성, 고르드마을, 레보프로방스, 아를, 액상프로방스, 에즈마을 등 도시적으로 건축적으로 특징이 있는 도시들과 칸느, 니스, 모나코에 이르기까지 남프랑스의 지중해 문화를 둘러보았다.
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Cheers!
